Poles, Ukrainians, and Lebanese were the dominant settlers of this solid, proud blue-collar neighborhood, which has morphed into the city's richest art zone, home to innovative galleries, big warehouses converted into studio clusters, and, most important of all, plenty of artists, who, this being Minneapolis, live in pleasant frame houses rather than cramped apartments. Thirteenth Avenue is the main drag, where you can find the subtly hip Modern Café and the always-daring, dark-walled Rogue Buddha Gallery, two pioneers in the art-ification of Northeast.