The North End has always drawn immigrants, and the welcome mat is still out--there's a mammoth open-air market called Hmongtown here, and many other ethnic establishments. The neighborhood is also well supplied with the long-established, tradition-rich businesses that Saint Paulites love, like the Tschida Bakery, known for poppy seed rolls, and Conny's Creamy Cone, where you can get no fewer than 24 flavors of soft-serve ice cream, including amaretto and cr�me de menthe. And Oakland Cemetery, the city's oldest, is rich with posthumous sculpture, including Hmong graves laser-etched with portraits and stories.