The centerpiece of this large green swathe of south and southeast Minneapolis is Lake Nokomis, one of the largest of the city's famed "Chain of Lakes." Minnehaha Creek, with its walking and running trails and bike paths, winds through it as well. The 48th and Chicago Avenue shopping district is home to the Amazon Bookstore--which was selling feminist books decades before the cyber-Amazon set up shop--and Cafe Levain, one of the leaders in Minneapolis' restaurant renaissance, reborn three years ago in a less formal incarnation.